This has been my second visit to Palma, the first was in January 2009, not too long after the Metro had opened in 2007. I have come back now to take a few more pictures for my forthcoming "Metro & Tram Atlas Spain" due to be released later this year.
I'm now talking about the
original metro line, which is now officially M1. This metro line was
also the most unexpected to be built and probably the fastest to be
put into service (although it had to be closed for several months
shortly after opening because one of the underground stations was
flooded and apparently this possibility had not been taken into
account during the hurried planning. About 80% of the line is
underground, although it doesn't go through any densely built-up
areas, instead it only runs through an industrial estate where the
visual impact of some sort of surface line wouldn't have caused any
problems. Also the university terminus is underground, although it
lies on the edge of the campus and a surface station wouldn't have
disturbed anyone. So, all in all, a lot of money was wasted for
something that was not really a necessity. Everyone knows that I'm a
devoted metro enthusiast, but for Palma, I think, some sort of light
rail within a larger context would have been a much better choice.
The line ends at Pl.
Espanya, which is the city's major interchange point. But as there is
no proper fare integration, of course, noone would use the metro for
just 1-2 stops to change to a bus at Pl. Espanya paying another full
fare, and there are plenty of buses available along the same route.
So, finding some kind of deal for a common fare system is urgently
required. Talking about fares, like in most Spanish cities, these are
relatively low, but in the case of Palma rather unpractical, as there
is no multiple-ride ticket or day pass, so you need to buy a single
ticket each time you want to enter the system, as stored-value cards
are only available for people living in Mallorca! So each time you
enter the system, you have to get a paper ticket for 1.60€, and
quite uncommonly, these tickets carry a QR code you have to hold
against a reader to open the doors. But at least in 50% of all my
entries, I had problems with these readers and had to try various
times. As you have to do the same procedure on exiting due to
additional fare zones on the regional lines, this would normally lead
to some overcrowding at the exit gates. So I don't really understand
why they chose such a system not used anywhere else I have been to,
it's more what you'll find at theme parks or so. Probably most riders
are regular riders who use a smartcard instead.
Line M1 is not badly
built, though. The short 2-car trains offer a smooth ride, track
seems to be properly laid (it certainly helped that the metro line is
actually part of a larger railway system), and even the stations are
rather pleasant. The city terminus at Pl. Espanya was
generously/excessively laid out with 10! terminal tracks (FGC handles
much denser traffic with only five tracks at its Pl. Catalunya
terminus in Barcelona!), and although the platforms lie deep enough
on level -2, the location of the escalators would not allow an easy
extension into the city centre proper, but such far-sighted issues
were probably irrelevant during the speedy planning. Another flaw of
this huge terminus is the lack of an underground walkway to the old
town area, instead people have to cross a 6-8 lane main road on the
surface. This underground hub also includes a bus terminal for
regional buses, but apparently, some of these have to take a long
detour to actually get in there... Those buses are part of the TIB
system which also includes the regional rail lines to Manacor and Sa
Pobla via Inca. That the ever-changing Balearic governments are not
too good at planning can also be seen in the frustrated project for a
"tram-train" from Manacor to Artà in the east of the
island. An old railway alignment was prepared for this and even some
partly low-floor trams were purchased from Vossloh, but the next
government simply cancelled the advanced project and now they have
six Citylink trams noone wants and needs. So to give them some reason
to be, they operate three morning express trains between Inca and
Palma, for which a low-floor platform extension had to be built into
the tunnel at Pl. Espanya.
In 2013, line M2 was
invented, but this did not require any construction, but was rather a
rebranding and service modification for local services now running
between Palma and Marratxí serving some villages that have grown to
become suburbs. Initially started with new EMUs acquired for the
regional services, M2 is now served by metro rolling stock not needed
on line M1. As a result, many of the new EMUs are waiting in the
depot, as electrification of the outer stretches of the regional
lines has been delayed. Compared to the acceptable stations on line
M1, those on M2 are simple, if not primitive stops, and the route
reminded me a bit of the outer sections of the Valencia Metro, as at
some stops you can see an old station building at a lower level and a
high platform built next to it. Serving proper villages, the line has
some decent ridership throughout the day. At Marratxí, ideally line
M2 should terminate on a track between the continuing tracks served
by regional trains, but instead they use a bay track on the northern
side sharing an island platform with inbound regional trains, which
offer convenient connections, with M2 leaving shortly after the
regional trains come through. But to change trains in the outbound
direction, passengers have to change platforms via an underpass and
waiting times for connecting trains are longer. It would probably be
advisable to make M2 trains switch to the proper metro tracks as they
enter the tunnel, so M1 and M2 would share the same platforms at Son
Costa/Son Fortesa and J. Verdaguer and thus offer an improved service
at these stations, whereas now it is not clearly signposted which
platform will have the next train towards Pl. Espanya.
Next-train indicators are
located on the platforms, but many of them did not work. And when
they work, they show the next five trains, but who cares about
further trains, generally the next two should be enough. In fact,
even the second train is irrelevant in Palma, although this is
sometimes useful on busy metros where one might skip an overcrowding
train knowing the next is following shortly. But as said before,
overcrowding is certainly not a problem in Palma...
Besides the basic M2
stations, the image of the Metro is also suffering from many of the
trains covered with graffiti. Inside they usually looked o.k.
although some litter was lying around. The stations are generally
tidy and graffiti-free. Illumination of the underground stations is
o.k. but could be slightly brighter. From the train, all stations
look rather dim due to the dark windows.
So what could be done to
give this metro more sense? Probably rebuilding the entire M1 into a
low-floor light rail system and connect it to a city-wide tram system
would be the best choice. They could ask their colleagues in Cologne
who have enough experience in changing high platforms to low
platforms with destroying the platforms, simply by raising the
ballast trackbed in the stations. The size and layout of Palma are
quite ideal for a good tram system, with several branches radiating
from a circular Avenidas route, plus an old town route now served by
many bus lines. But a first step really has to be proper fare
integration with easy-to-use day tickets for occasional riders and
tourists.
Tranvía de Sóller
Visiting Palma, an urban
rail enthusiast has to visit the heritage tram in Sóller, too, no
doubt. Although the 4 km line is used also by some locals, it is
primarily a tourist attraction, and a very popular one. Even in late
April many trains (they are made of up to four cars!) are completely
full, and at 5.50€ for a single ride, this must be quite a good
business. But riding old trams with wooden benches on worn-out track
has never been my favourite pastime, but I did, of course go on a
full round trip and took lots of photos, too.
LINKS
Palma Metro at UrbanRail.Net
Robert, thanks for your detailed report about the Palma metro system. We came back from Mallorca two days ago (our first time on the island). We were living in the old town of Sóller, did quite a lot of hiking and used the tramway to the port several times. For me, this seems to be a system in quite good concition - and I wouldn't even call the tracks "worn out". Same with the old train from Sóller to Palma. They run with old but pretty well maintained material. Both "tourist railways" have the potential to be an everyday mode of transport, if branded like one.
ReplyDeleteBack to the metro system: At Son Sardina I had the chance to take pictures of a passing metro train. And between Son Sardina and Pl. Espanya the old train passes directly through crowded parts of the city on street level, but with no intermediate stops. My main question is: Why didn't they transform this stretch to a tramway with some intermediate stops? I think a mixed use of old trains and modern tramways would easily be possible. What's the use of the new tunnel under the industrial zone? Why didn't they prepare an extension to the old town?
Although I didn't use the metro, I totally agree: An almost completely stupid system (even more the stupid than the U4 in Hamburg). Hopefully they will make the best out of it in the future - a lightrail system using the existing stretches transformed to low-floor stations and being extended on street level, as you propose.