Westbound Tozai Line train crossing the Hirose River
Sendai, just like Sapporo, was
initially meant to be in the first of a 2-volume series about Japan,
and this city somehow influenced our publication schedule as only a
few months ago, they opened their second metro line, which for the
foreseeable future will also remain the last completely new line to
open in Japan. We thought that this opening would therefore be an
ideal time to start with this series of books. As my co-author Andrew
Phipps had just recently been there, I put my travel dates in spring
2016 so I would be able to cover the new Tozai Line. Later, I decided
that we'd split the series into three volumes instead, and so Sendai
will be part of the "North & Centre" volume in 2017,
leaving more space for the numerous rail systems in the Tokyo area in
the first volume (June 2016).
I calculated a full day for
photographing in Sendai, and that should be enough, as besides the
two Sendai Subway lines and some JR services there is nothing around
here. The first thing you notice in Sendai is its Subway logo which
sits on top of all entrances or is attached to buildings. For
Austrians like me or Germans, the combination of two capital S's
always evokes other associations, but that's what Sendai Subway
suggests. I took a quick stroll through the awakening city centre
when the extensive shopping galleries were just opening - by the way,
unlike Osaka (Umeda), passengers are mostly delivered to a network of
elevated walkways rather than underground shopping malls when they
leave the railway station. I then entered the N09 station, i.e.
Hirose-dori on the older Namboku Line (here you can sometimes also
read Nanboku) and got my day pass easily from the ticket machine.
Right next to these, I was surprised by a huge vaulted mural
depicting mythological figures:
Hirose-dori station on Namboku Line
I took the next southbound train to
check out the interchange at Sendai station between the two lines.
The Tozai Line was signed well enough, but I was surprised that I was
sent upstairs to the mezzanine, then along a long corridor to
escalators which led me down to the end of the Tozai platform. So
apparently, despite being located one station basically on top of the
other in a + shape, there is no direct connection between the two
platform levels. It may be possible via the lift, though, I'll have
to have a closer look at the station layout map which was available
at many Subway stations. Later I realised that Sendai station on the
Namboku Line, i.e. N10, is actually the nicest station on that
line, with a green indirectly illuminated vaulted ceiling along the
middle of the island platform. I wonder whether this was an
enhancement made in the course of the construction of the new Tozai
Line which features similar design elements:
Namboku Line platform at Sendai station
After having visited almost all metros
of all different technologies (only Sapporo left), I was quite
positively surprised by the design of the new Tozai Line. All
stations have some appealing elements, in most cases it is a special
ceiling structure using indirect illumination, but also varying types
of wall cladding and in some cases stylish murals in the intermediate
level. So while all other underground stations all over Japan were
rather functional, though still quite pleasant places, here for the
first time I had the feeling that someone has actually given a
special consideration to station design:
Yagiyama Zoological Park - western terminus of the Tozai Line
A feature unique to Sendai,
which had been in use on the Namboku Line, has also been implemented
on the Tozai Line, i.e. a different colour for gates and station
signs depending on the direction of the train. So all westbound
platform edges are green, those east are orange; the line colour is
light-blue. I wonder whether those colours were chosen at random or
whether they mean anything intuitively to the locals. Especially on
the western leg, the line runs through rather hilly terrain, so
International Center station lies just below the surface right after
the bridge, while other stations lie as deep as level -5. The
underground stations are well-ventilated, in fact almost too cold to
hang around for a while, and to make them less spooky, there is
modern classical music (which can easily get on one's nerves...). As not many people from overseas will have had a chance to see this line yet, here some examples of various stations from west to east:
T01 Yagiyama Zoological Park - western terminus of the Tozai Line
T02 Abayama - serving the university
T03 Kawauchi
T07 Sendai
T07 Sendai
T08 Miyagino-dori
T10 Yakushido
T12 Rokuchonome
T13 Arai
Just after noon you can get quite nice
shots from the station square above with the trains entering or
leaving International Center station. Otherwise only Sendai (T07)
station allows the typical "leaning over the platform gates"
shot of a train, as most other platforms are just long enough for a
4-car train (though there is an unfinished platform section behind a
wall in case a fifth car needs to be added). From the outside, the
trains are pretty ugly anyway... Inside they are nice, though smaller
than those on the Namboku Line, as like in Fukuoka or Kobe, this is
once again a linear-motor metro line with a smaller profile. So,
besides Osaka and Tokyo, there are a total of three cities in Japan,
which have just two metro lines, but these two each use different
technology. I wonder if all calculations were done properly? Usually
you reduce costs by having a larger system with a single technology,
by sharing depots, maintenance staff, etc.
Inside a Tozai Line car
Right now, it does not seem that the
Tozai Line will need a fifth car soon. Besides a few students going
and coming from the University at Aobayama station, the trains were
barely used during noon. Like the Namboku Line, the Tozai Line
operates every 7-8 minutes during off-peak hours. At either end of
the line, buses are supposed to connect, but there was hardly any
movement visible. The Arai terminus near the line's depot lies in a
rather undeveloped area, although some housing construction was
visible. But all in all, I wondered whether a full-scale metro (well,
it's a down-scaled metro anyway) was needed here, or whether some
sort of light rail, maybe with an underground portion through the
city centre, would have done the job too. But such intermediate
systems do not exist in Japan so far. On the other hand surprising
that they didn't simply erect an ugly viaduct through the less
densely-built up areas, but built the line mostly underground.
Besides the bridge across the Hirose River next to International
Center station, there is another short bridge structure, but I think
it is hardly accessible through a forested area; and if you manage to
get there, you'll find a sort of modern truss bridge, so no good spot
for an easy train picture. Like other linear metros, the Tozai Line
uses an overhead catenary. It is operated by a driver in ATO mode,
but even on straight sections does not speed up too much, and in
curves the max. speed was mostly marking 40 km/h, although the train
ran even slower despite proper canting.
After exploring the Tozai Line in
depth, I had a quick look at the JR underground route, the Senseki
Line which starts in an underground station Aoba-dori right in
the city centre (and this station is quite directly linked to the
Namboku Line, both forming a sort of L-complex). This JR line has a
total of five underground stations, all look similar, but each with a
different colour. Off-peak there is a train every 15 minutes, so I
took one out from Sendai to Kozurushinden and then back to Aoba-dori.
JR underground platform at Sendai station
The western leg of the present Tozai Line is a logical continuation
of this rail tunnel, so I wonder whether originally these two
projects were related. Inside the JR stations there is a huge system
map for the suburban services, but this was the first of its kind not
to include English station names. The same was true for the
service-pattern maps, although inside the trains these showed English
transcriptions, too.
After this it was finally time to ride
the Namboku Line properly. First I took the northern leg, came
through Asahigaoka station which allows a view out into a park on the
western side, and then got off at Kuromatsu to take some pictures on
the open section just north of that station. In fact, the line
remains on the surface almost to the northern end, and possibly some
shots are possible from street level between Yaotome and Izumi-Chuo,
but I was getting too tired.
N01 Izumi-chuo - northern terminus of Namboku Line
On the Namboku Line they also use just
4-car trains, but all platforms are fully fitted out, so you can get
those over-the-fence shots everywhere. Otherwise, as said before, the
stations are plain and monotonous, with beige and brown tones
dominating. The walls are mostly clad with beige bricks. So I picked
a few as samples to take pictures and rode to the southern end, which
is also a surface terminus with tracks leading to the depot. But the
sun was getting too low already for good photos, so I changed at
Nagamachi to take a JR train back to Sendai station and finish the
day early.
Despite having just added a new metro line, there are no nice system maps available. The only thing they hand out are huge bus maps which let you recognise where the Subway runs along.
What I noticed most strongly in Sendai is the large amount of old buses. In this respect, Japan seems to be decades behind Europe and North America. High-floor buses we can hardly remember they once existed on urban lines, are rather common here, and not to think about the diesel emissions. Wasn't Tokyo once associated with climate change and how we should save the world?
Despite having just added a new metro line, there are no nice system maps available. The only thing they hand out are huge bus maps which let you recognise where the Subway runs along.
What I noticed most strongly in Sendai is the large amount of old buses. In this respect, Japan seems to be decades behind Europe and North America. High-floor buses we can hardly remember they once existed on urban lines, are rather common here, and not to think about the diesel emissions. Wasn't Tokyo once associated with climate change and how we should save the world?
LINKS
Sendai at UrbanRail.Net (feat. map)
I lived in Sendai in 1991-1993 and visited regularly, during the endless construction of the Tozai line. One of the reasons for the delays was a protracted argument about the alignment and connections at Sendai station, and, as you suspected, whether the line should be independen, as built, or a continuation of the Senseki.
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ReplyDeleteThanks for the pictures! Looks beautiful. I was in Sendai years ago when the Namboku line first opened. If i recall one of the stations has an entrance with a corridor with an illuminated map of the stars and all the constellations. I think it was either Hirose Dori or Kotodai Koen. Any thoughts?
ReplyDeleteIt's Hirose Dori. There is a photo of it on this page if you scroll back up....
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