I hadn't been to Budapest in more than
15 years. I always told myself that I would go back as soon as the
fourth metro line was open, and so I did (2-5 April2014), but 15
years ago, noone would have thought that it might take so long, but
now it's open and running and at least it didn't disappoint me and
Budapest locals who will have to use it every day, certainly like it,
too. One week after its inauguration, many people were still
exploring and admiring.
Anyway, let's start from the beginning,
as usual, and look at the Metro later. Budapest has, no doubt, a good
transport system, and with metro, trams, two types of suburban
railways (MAV and HEV), a funicular, trolleybuses, a rack railway, a
children's railway and even a chairlift, there is enough to explore
for any urban transport enthusiast. To find out what goes where, can
be a tricky thing, as only small fold-out maps are available, which
are more like an enhanced metro map, i.e they show all tram lines but
only with major stops, as well as some trunk bus lines. And these
were updated with the new line M4. Some material was also available
that shows the changes that have taken place in conjunction with the
M4 opening, but these only affect bus routes in the southwestern
area, whereas tram lines have remained basically unchanged (quite
notable as some lines double the metro on the surface), except that a
weekend line 48 was introduced. I was hoping to get a full city map
with all lines as are posted in some places, but probably they
haven't updated it yet.
When I arrived at Ferihegy Airport,
there was a BKV office right next to the exit point in the main
arrival hall, easily visible and staffed with an English-speaking
lady. They don't accept euros but a cash machine was nearby to get
some Forint. I got a 72-hour-ticket, exactly the period I needed for
my stay, but there are also 24- and 48-hour tickets, and they give
you unlimited travel on almost anything within the Budapest city
boundaries (and the city is pretty large), except the funicular up to
the Buda castle hill and the Children's Railway. At 4150 Forint
(that's some 13 EUR), it is not exceptionally cheap compared to other
prices in Hungary, but a good deal. And keep your ticket at hand at
all times because you'll need to show it frequently!
Although certainly quite smaller than
it used to be, the tram system (Villamos in Hungarian) is still
rather large and a useful means of transport also for ordinary
tourists. Especially line 2 provides a nice sightseeing tour along
the Danube River on the Pest (eastern) side, but also on the right
(west/Buda) bank you can ride the tram along the river (19/41). Line
2 is actually close to being a light rail line if it wasn't for the
old trams in service not only on this line, as well as the sometimes
very basic stops, but otherwise it is mostly fenced off and even has
an underground stop at Fövam ter, now integrated into the M4 station
complex. On other lines (I didn't ride all of them) the standard was
varying a lot from extremely bad track on some sections of line 1 or
the northern end of line 3 to recently upgraded sections with new
track and proper platforms to match new low-floor trams. As far as I
have observed, these (as of now only Siemens extra-long Combinos) are
only in service on lines 4/6, which run along the körut, the ring
road on the Pest side. There are posters at many stops announcing the
introduction of CAF Urbos trams in 2015, but I wonder if they manage
to get the track into proper condition, as now even the robust Tatras
have problems and need to go very slowly on some sections of line 1,
for example. So, the system is in a long process of being modernised.
Next-tram indicators are still rather rare and often undergoing
testing. In the central area, some announcements like transfers to
the Metro are also made in English. Quite unusual for such an old
system, all the trams are double-ended and doors often open on the
left side. On line 2 at Vigandó ter in the city centre, there was
obviously no room for a southbound platform, so you step down onto
the northbound track. In general, stops are quite far apart in many
cases, which may give you the impression of a higher travel speed,
and in fact, they do travel very fast as opposed to many new tram
systems. I was surprised how the long Combinos can handle those
speeds on not always perfect track. Most of the routes I have seen
are on a dedicated lane or right-of-way, which is at least separated
from car traffic by concrete „balls“, so cars are unlikely to
invade the tram route. A bit like in Vienna, to avoid too long lines,
many of them act as feeders to the metro or to other tram lines. But
apparently, this approach has changed with line M4, as the surface
trams lines were maintained to cater for short trips (a good idea as
many M4 stations lie very deep and would require too much time to
ride just between two stations).
Budapest now has four METRO lines, and
they are all rather different. M1, the oldest underground railway on
the European continent, is of course more of a fun ride than a real
metro, but it does get busy and trains travel very frequently and
make only very brief stops. With only three short carriages making a
full train, their capacity is rather limited and the stations are
placed at short distances. All in all, more like an underground tram
than a metro.
After having been completely
refurbished, line M2 now looks like a modern, recently opened line,
especially as the new Alstom Metropolis trains are in service here,
too. In some places, some marble walls were integrated into the
otherwise complete redesign, which I think was done very well. The
stations look bright, and, what I found very interesting, the often
ugly dirty wall behind the track was also decorated, resulting in a
much more pleasant overall look. These images mostly depict scenes
from the area where the station lies.
With line M2 refurbished and despite
being newer, line M3 looks like the old and dark line. No doubt, the
station designs have a certain 1970s Eastern appeal, but something
needs to be done to bring it up to the standard of lines M2 and M4.
Maybe improved illumination would already do a lot, and maybe a
similar approach can be made with the design of the wall behind the
tracks. Especially as the ceilings are very low, and there is mostly
a row of columns close to the platform edge, this area is very dark
and unattractive. The old Moscow-type trains add to the nostalgia
feeling of days gone by. The southern terminus at Köbanya-Kispest
has already been refurbished and made fully accessible.
And now to the new M4. Wikipedia
actually has a list of dates that had been announced in the past for
its scheduled opening... Anyway, I was already quite excited when I
saw some construction photos and some photos of the finished
stations, and I was not disappointed when I saw them in real life.
Although like almost anywhere nowadays, bare concrete is also present
here, each station has received its individual style, some more
interesting than others, but almost all have something to discover.
But above all, the stations are very spacious, well illuminated, good
signage and good ventilation. Lots of escalators as well as lifts
link the different levels, as most of the stations lie rather deep.
Interchanges with other modes like trams and railways, but also the
other metro lines were well planned and logically laid out. I think
in most cases passengers can reach tram stops without crossing any
streets. What I am missing, but maybe this is in the making, is a
proper logo on a pole outside the stations. Previously, the other
lines had a sort of logo, different for each line and not really
visible either. A new M-logo is actually used to prefix the line
number, similar to the Paris Metro, and I hope they will place it in
a strong colour at road intersections etc. to make it visible from
the distance.
Back to the station designs, it was
funny to get a certain deja-vu experience in some of them: Moricz
Zsigmond körter certainly reminds me of Georg-Brauchle-Ring in
Munich, the terminus at Kelenföldi with its concrete walls painted
in red is also reminiscent of Munich's U2 along its eastern leg where
this was a main theme, again in Munich, the entrance bubble at Bikás
park is similar to that at
St.-Quirin-Platz
on line U1.
So I wonder if the same architects were involved
here. At Kelenföldi, the railway station was rebuilt together with
the metro, and from a wide mezzanine which spans the entire station
and connects bus terminals at either side, you can reach all the
railway platforms directly, making it a perfect hub. So I guess, it
was worth the wait and the line is already pretty busy. See photos of
all M4 stations here. Let's hope that the once envisaged eastern
extension to Bosnyak ter will follow soon.
The Alstom Metropolis trains used on
lines M2 and M4 are quite o.k., maybe a bit loud, but not as much as
in Warsaw. On the new line they run rather smoothly, although
compared to Vienna's U-Bahn the speed is (still) modest. Apparently,
they are ready for driverless operation on line M4, but for the
initial period a driver is on board and operates them in ATO mode.
Inside they had a pleasant temperature and all sorts of
announcements, visual and accoustic.
During my stay, there were ticket
inspectors at almost all metro entrances, something I did not quite
understand. The cost to have at least two people at every entrance
must be horrendous. At the same time you don't really catch people
without tickets as you would turn back if you don't have a ticket and
buy one before trying to get in. I remember that last time I was
there, ticket inspectors were waiting at the end of upgoing
escalators to catch people without a ticket and fine them, but now
they were all placed at entrances. Can anyone explain what the
intention of this is?
Today I also got the chance to ride a
HEV train to Szentendre, a nice town north of Budapest (with a BKV
transport museum next to the station). This line (and I guess the
others are similar) reminded me of the Roslagsbana or Saltsjöbana in
Stockholm. The trains must be carrying thousands of people every day,
but I don't understand why these people don't deserve proper
platforms. You need to take a very good step or jump to get into or
off the train. Unless they plan to get new low-floor trains soon,
they should do something about this. And on some sections the trains
really shake too much! Hopefully they will soon connect the northern
with the two southern lines, what has been planned for a long time,
creating a sort of M5. In a first stage, they should at least bring
the southern lines further into the city, for example to the Kalvin
ter hub, where people can change to a higher capacity vehicle,
whereas now, people coming on busy and long suburban trains need to
continue their journey on crowded trams, which has never made sense
to me. From the eastern line, people can change to M2 or several tram
lines, the same with the northern line that terminates at Batthyany
ter. Another option would be to convert them into a sort of
tram-train using new vehicles that can also run on the urban tram
tracks, most of which are on dedicated lanes anyway.
LINKS
Budapest Metro & Tram at UrbanRail.Net

































