Coming from Miami, Puerto Rico was my
last stop on this 1-month tour through the U.S., in preparpation for
my forthcoming book 'Subways & Light Rail in the U.S.A. - Vol 3:Midwest & South', due to be released in December 2014. Hot Puerto
Rico was, of course, also a nice final stopover before going back to
autumn temperatures in Berlin.
San Juan has a single urban rail line,
referred to as 'Tren Urbano' rather than the more universal 'Metro',
although it is actually a real metro. Let's start with its two major
flaws – too long headways between trains and what is without doubt
its most significant problem, it ends short of the city centre and
therefore operates far below its potential. Otherwise my impression
was quite positive.
The current line runs from Sagrado
Corazón to Bayamón, but Sagrado Corazón is by no means a natural
end of a metro line at all. The initial project included two
underground stations further northwest, which are urgently needed to
give the entire line a real reason to be. A further extension towards
Old San Juan is, of course, very recommended too. Sagrado Corazón
lies in a badly developed area, probably not a very nice place to
wait for a bus at nighttime, especially as the bus system is the
worst I have ever seen in any developed country (after all, this is
part of the U.S. and people insist that the U.S. is a developed
country....). Unless you already know which bus goes where, there is
no real way to find out. Bus stops have a bus stop sign, but that's
it, no line numbers, no timetables, no maps, so you completely rely
on locals' information, and like my hotel receptionist, some of them
have no idea either. Most buses are, however, new and
air-conditioned, and riding them is cheap. They are operated by the
British company First, and their mother company should be ashamed of
the service provided over here. But it is probably not their fault,
but a problem of who is actually responsible for proper passenger
information? ATI (the government transit department nicely standing
for 'Alternativa de Transporte Integrado' – but alternativa of
what??), or is it AMA, the bus company, or First, the contracted
operator? Anyway, you cannot buy day passes on buses, just at metro
stations, so once you find out which bus may take you to the metro,
you have to pay 75 cents for the bus, at the metro station you get a
day pass for $5.00 which is also valid on buses... But watch out, the
day pass doesn't let you get back into a station for a period of
approx. 20 minutes, so popping out to take a picture and getting back
in again to jump on the next train is impossible, so this can be very
time-consuming. Although even with normal strip cards, you sometimes
have to try twice as the machine doesn't read them correctly. Ticket
vending machines are quite easy to handle, you can buy single fares
for $1.50 or put any value on the card and the fare will be deducted
on entry. Tickets also have to be swiped when leaving the station.
So, all in all, the integrated fare system has only been implemented
half-heartedly. I find it extremely bad that not even the big bus
station in the Old Town has ticket machines or ticket windows. That
there are no maps available, is no surprise. Inside the trains there
are some system maps, but they are so small, it is impossible to read
them. While other pathetic bus systems in the U.S. have at least some
online services, AMA has no information at all, not even a classic
list of bus routes, and no trip planner, of course. So this is
certainly not first-world standard.
Let's get back to the Tren Urbano –
except for the bad headways (a train every 15 minutes) and the
city-side end in the middle of nowhere, it is actually quite good.
The stations are all big structures, most of them elevated, two
underground and some at grade, all very spacious and equipped with
all sorts of lifts, escalators and stairs. Most stations are
completely covered, in some part of the platform is uncovered, which
is not so much a problem now as only 4- instead of 6-car trains are
in service and they normally stop at the covered section.
Unfortunately all stations appear rather grey, not even the purple
line colour adds a little touch as it is too dark. At most stations,
there is some work of art somewhere, but at platform level this is
only well-visible at Jardines. Some have sculptures outside the
station, or murals a decorated ceilings in the entrance areas:
Generally, all stations have pleasant entrances, mostly below the
viaduct, and for the stations in a cutting like Martínez Nadal,
Centro Médico or Jardines, with a free-standing surface building.
In
the case of Río Piedras, the two entrances are integrated into
buildings which apparently replaced buildings previously demolished
to allow for the construction of the access shafts to the system's
only station built by mining techniques:
The other underground
station, at Universidad, however, was built by cut-and-cover, it
features one 'headhouse' and one simple entrance. Only a few
stations, like Martínez Nadal or Bayamón, have shops like Subway,
whereas most shop facilities for example at Sagrado Corazón remain
empty and unused (adding to the deserted atmosphere at the terminus).
What is missing in most stations are a larger number of benches, and
as many young people take the metro, you see lots of people sitting
on the floor. I guess with a 15-minute headway more benches should be
provided. All stations are staffed with a security person sitting
next to the entrance at most times. Only busier stations have two
exits, but an emergency exit which looks almost like a full-size exit
is visible in some. At Jardines, a proper eastern exit is planned,
but has not been finished as the development on that side of the line
has not progressed as planned. Unlike most American rapid rail
stations, those of the Tren Urbano are quite well integrated into
their respective neighbourhoods, and distances between them are more
European-style than American, with less than 1 km between them in
most cases.
Again, the issue of the next-train
indicators is badly solved. At one or two locations in the middle of
the platform there is a running indicator saying 'The next train to
Bayamón arrives in 4 minute(s)' 'El próximo tren hacia Bayamón
llegará en 4 minuto(s)', which means you don't get the information
when you look at the indicator, but only when the indicator happens
to display it. This is one of the few announcements made in English,
too. Accoustic announcements on the train are made in Spanish only.
Written info is certainly given in both languages.
San Juan's metro uses a proper logo,
visible on trains and also on a pole outside the stations. It is made
of various colours and suggests that the 'TU' also stands for the
possessive pronoun in Spanish, meaning 'your'. And what is always
very welcome, the logo with an arrow is also located at many road
intersections or freeway exits, so finding a station is not so
difficult. So why can't the people who designed this be recruited to
develop a good bus information system too?
The trains are in good condition after
10 years of service, maintenance seems to be adequate, the wheels run
smoothly and the track is also properly maintained. The trains don't
run too fast, though, and get a bit louder in curves, but nothing too
bad. Normally 4-car trains are in service during the week, although
platforms are laid out for 6 cars, and on weekends, only 2-car trains
are used. The cars are wide enough and feel spacious, the seats are
o.k. You can choose between forward, backward or longitudinal
seating, so all options are available. I don't know about peak hours,
but off-peak there is always a seat left, although the system is
quite well patronised for what it is. Although most trains show a TU
logo, the original colour stripes on the sides have disappeared and
the trains appear an plain stainless steel, emphasizing the overall
colourless appearance of the system.
So the overall impression is good, but
with a sense of pity that it has not been properly finished and
extended to make it a really successful story, but the foundations
are laid. Let's hope for the sake of San Juan's people that they will
soon get some competent politicians who are strong enough to bring a
good project to a good end. As said before, the Santurce two-station
extension to Minillas is a must, then the previously suggested leg to
the airport and the branch to Carolina, for which tunnel stubs were
built just south of Río Piedras station, should follow as well. And
another 2 stations towards Old San Juan, the historic city centre,
should be added, too. Unfortunately I did not get a chance to ride
the AcuaExpress, a ferry service between Hato Rey metro station and
Old San Juan, because it was out of service after some accident at
the Hato Rey pier.
But the whole system can only be
successful if finally someone organises a good complementary bus
system too, many stations were laid out for this. But if commuters
cannot be sure that a bus will be there at a fixed time to take them
to their work or back home, they will not really be willing to switch
from their beloved cars to public transport, i.e. there won't be an
'Alternativa de Transporte Integrado'.
Last stop on this tour! Return to first stop: Chicago
LINKS
Tren Urbano (Official Website)
Tren Urbano at UrbanRail.Net
Excellent report on the TU. To answer a couple of points:
ReplyDeleteThe "Alternativa" part of ATI refers to an alternative to driving; as you doubtlessly saw during your visit to the island, we have a major issue with road congestion.
The bus route chart issue is bad, in general terms, though in all fairness, the bus routes were changed recently and the old posters at each station were taken down.
Some time back there used to be poster maps at each station indicating what was within a short walking radius of the station. Inexplicably, they were taken down and have not been seen since.
At the beginning of its existence, ATI published a monthly mini-magazine that was available free of charge at each station; it included the TU map, all bus routes and articles (and ads) relating to things about the TU system and nearby points and businesses of interest. This too disappeared some years back.
You mention that: "At most stations, there is some work of art somewhere..." This is not entirely correct: EVERY station has a work of art in it... though some are hard to spot as independent "art", such as in the case of the "eggshell lamps" in San Francisco Station (which look like... lamps), the "Steel Brushes" hanging from the ceiling of Rio Piedras Station (which can easily be mistaken as part of the A/C system) or the Photographic Murals of Roosevelt Station (showing blown-up photographs of the golden era of steam trains of the American Railroad Company of Puerto Rico (A.R.R.) on the island).
Another issue is that most stations were build with lots of retail space, but very few are occupied; the largest is a College at Bayamon Station. This is not entirely due to a lack of interest: when the TU opened, they did not have the bureaucratic infrastructure in place to rent space at its stations. Once this was in place, there were permit hurdles that had to be overcome. Once these were done, the cost of renting was... ridiculous (I should know; the company I was working for at the time had me look into it)... By the time the rent was brought down, the island's economy tanked and made it difficult to build new businesses.
Sadly, the TU is a first-rate system under terrible management at every level. Still, the potential is there; all that is needed is the proper vison and the will to implement it.
Resulting from this U.S. trip, I have now published the third book in my U.S. series, namely "Subways & Light Rail in the U.S.A. - Vol. 3: Midwest & South", for more info see
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