During my short holiday in
Nice I took one day (6 March 2014) to visit Marseille where I had already been once
back in the 1990s. While the metro system hasn't changed much since
then, Marseille now also boasts a modern tramway.
All in all, and especially
when compared to the similarly sized Lyon metropolitan area and other
European cities of that size (i.e. between 1 and 1.5 million
inhabitants), the urban rail system in Marseille appears rather
modest and insufficient. The metro, like in Lyon, uses short trains,
here the 4-car trains only reach 65 m in length, not too bad when
compared to the also short trains in Paris, but other European metros
designed in the 1970s were laid out for longer rolling stock. This
fact makes the stations, which could not take longer trains, look
very small; this impression is confirmed especially in the city
centre where they are often also very narrow. In recent years, just
line 1 has been extended by four stations, and compared to all the
older stations, these appear like huge and bright spaces, almost
oversized, given the lower patronage compared to the busy stations in
the centre.
Having used tunnel boring machines on most sections, stations end up lying very deep. Mostly they have only one entrance, which unless you know exactly where it is, may be difficult to find. There is a large cube-shaped logo, but being black, it is not properly visible from the distance, some red like in Italy would help.
Having used tunnel boring machines on most sections, stations end up lying very deep. Mostly they have only one entrance, which unless you know exactly where it is, may be difficult to find. There is a large cube-shaped logo, but being black, it is not properly visible from the distance, some red like in Italy would help.
What is most annoying on
the Marseille Métro is the extremely bad design of the two
interchanges between lines 1 and 2. The interchange at Saint-Charles
stroke me already during my first visit, because what I consider
simply a severe planning mistake (otherwise it would be hard to
believe), does not make sense at all. Often when I complain about
such situations, someone points out one reason or another which may
be acceptable for a certain compromise, but I think noone can give a
plausible reason why they bothered to drill those tunnels in a way
that all tracks lie parallel to each other – a good idea up to here
– but in the end placed an island platform between the line 1
tracks in the middle, and side platforms for line 2 on the outer
tracks. So there is absolutely no point in having all tracks on the
same level from a passenger's point of view, in fact it would be
better to have a two-level station instead, T-Centralen in Stockholm
would have been a model for this station.
But the second interchange
between the two lines, Castellane, is not much better. When two lines
intersect perpendicularly, the only option is that one line is on the
upper level, and the other below, with one flight of stairs and
escalators enough to change trains. This is normally easily done when
the two lines are planned and built at the same time, as was the case
here more or less. But instead you get a completely inadequate
station with narrow side platforms and exits only at one end via
stairs only, after an acceptable walk you come to the system's major
bottleneck: M1 also has side platforms with exits only at their
western ends, but here with upgoing escalators and stairs that are
not even one metre wide. It reminded me of some of those super-narrow
staircases on the Brussels metro. In a few months, Castellane will
also become the terminus of the city's third tram line, so passenger
numbers and overcrowding will even increase here.
Otherwise, signage and
general operation looks good. The trains, with their Brussels-style
orange interior, could have standard poles and rails to hold on to,
instead you can hold on to the seats and in the middle of the area
next to the doors there is a half-high pole where you can hold on to,
but this is somehow actually obstructing people when getting on and
off. The trains run on rubber tyres, which I find funny and I like
the smell of the tyres, somewhat roasted, but I actually don't see
the point, especially as those systems like in Paris actually have
normal steel wheels, too. But compared to well-maintained
conventional metros like in Berlin, which I'm always surprised how
quietly it runs, I don't see the advantages of rubber-tyred metros,
especially if there are no significant gradients. Whereas line 1 now
seems to have reached its natural length, i.e. the boundaries of the
densely built-up area, line 2 is far from reaching its full
extension. From the elevated Sainte-Marguerite Dromel terminus you
can see huge high-rise neighbourhoods some kilometres away where the
metro could go. An extension to St-Loup was high on the agenda some
10 years ago, was later postponed again and again while the tram was
given priority. In the north, a 1-station extension is now being
built, basically on depot access tracks, but this will simply move
the bus/metro interchange a few hundreds metres further north.
In 2007, Marseille joined
the general French tramway boom, although it was actually one of only
a few cities which had never completely given up its tram system. But
the only line, 68, was rather short and played only a minor role in
the city's transport system. This line was rebuilt and became part of
line 1, which was extended east from the former terminus St-Pierre,
thus almost doubling its length. This extension, however, runs
through some either undeveloped land or not too dense areas, and
given the fact that Marseille still has several high-density
districts neither served by metro nor the tram, I started to wonder
whether this was really the area with the highest priority for a
rail-based system. In the city centre it uses an old tram tunnel and
therefore terminates underground at Noailles. Tram line 2 seems to be
busier as it actually traverses the city centre and also serves the
new developments to the north of it, the Euroméditerranée. The
third line, now under construction, will give more coverage to the
city centre, as it will run along Rue de Rome, right between the two
metro lines, but will not reach any areas still lacking urban rail
service.
Marseille's tram was much
acclaimed when it opened for its modern design of the vehicles,
although I have to admit that without being pointed at it, I would
not directly associate the front of the trams with the bow of a
vessel as was suggested, but it looks quite good anyway. They also
look quite nice inside with a lot of wood used instead of the
otherwise typical plastic. But the seats hardly deserve being called
seats, the least comfortable I have ever seen on any tram or train.
Not because they are hard, that's fine for a ride of limited time,
but their shape is simply absurd. I guess that it was one of those
incompetent designers who suggested to incompetent decision-makers to
use an 'ergonomic' design! Ergonomy is a nice feature, but it only
works if you can adjust the seat to the person who sits on it. And
being tall and with a long-suffered back problem, I could write books
about stupid people who design seats for public transport. I actually
feel pity for Bombardier, as they normally deliver acceptable to good
seats, but as said before, some incompetent designer must have
imposed his/her will here. Aren't regular passengers in Marseille
complaining about this? They should come to Nice for a day to see the
difference! Another thing I was disappointed about was the quality of
ride in curves and over switches. I had long believed that this is
mostly a Citadis problem, and had not observed it that much on
Flexitys elsewhere, but in Marseille they slow down for curves to
5-10 km/h, so the overall impression of speed is rather modest.
Through the city centre, notably around Noailles on line 2, the trams
continuously ring their bells as people keep crossing tracks or even
walk on them to avoid the crowded pavement. All the stops are
well-equipped with all sorts of information you would expect,
electronic next-tram indicators, and, what I appreciate, with stop
name signs at a height only about half a metre from the platform,
which is much easier to read from inside the tram (despite the
super-large windows...).
All in all, the public
transport system is well integrated, costs only 5 € for 24 hours,
and season ticket holders can even use local trains within Marseille.
Tickets are all of the contactless smart-card type and are supposed
to be validated at each boarding on the tram. For the metro you have
to hold them against the reader anyway to open the gates/turnstiles.
I was surprised how many manned information points there are, mostly
small offices which provide maps and timetables. At the railway
station's metro station Saint-Charles, a long escalator down, there
is even a proper RTM ticket window, otherwise tickets have to be
bought from vending machines. At some stations I observed single
vigilants.
LINKS
Marseille at UrbanRail.Net
RTM (Metro & Tram Operator)